Sustainable Growth Boise, Microbial Introduction Wrap Up

March 31, 2008 by Ray Gore

Hello!

We have really been busy these past couple of months attending trade shows and starting our spring applications. The interest of homeowners wanting Organic Lawn Care fertilizing is growing all the time and we are gearing up to meet their needs and exceed their expectations.

When we make liquid compost extract we first start with a high quality blend of compost to have the maximum numbers of bacteria, fungi, protozoa and beneficial nematodes. There are other critters in high quality compost but they dont seem to make it through the process of compost teas or extracts. I have always sourced or make my own blends of compost to make sure I have a bacteria dominated and a fungi dominated piles so I can mix them custom for the days applications. On an average day I will mix a little bit of each type of compost on site for the greatest diversity and maximum results. Usually for the type of extractor we now use for lawncare applications I end up with about 30 lbs of compost blends per 250 gallon batch. I mix kelps, humates and other organically certified or approved amendments depending upon the conditions that I know I will encounter. We have a microscope on site to test each batch of liquid compost for content before any applications are made

Part 3: Basic Theory of Microorganism Introduction…

January 24, 2008 by Ray Gore

Some of the most basic equipment needed for large scale agriculture or horticulture operations depends of course on your actual needs plus room for expansion. While running the company Sustainable Services Idaho, a company I started near Twin Falls Idaho in 2003 with the help of outside investors I had perfected the procedures and systems needed. When I was working for Magic Valley Compost as a soils consultant and playing around with brewers then deciding to go with extractors, whole new systems never before arranged had to be thought out.

One major consideration for lage volume extraction is the water supply. The Hronek machine extacted about 2000 gallons of Liquid Compost Extract (LCE, as named by Steve Diver) per hour so you needed a pump that would deliver that amount or do like I did and get a large tank for supply. At Sustainable Services Idaho we had a 12 thousand gallon supply tank connected with a 2 inch supply hose, gravity fed through the building into the extraction machine. This tank was equiped to be heated if needed in colder climates like Idaho. We purchased this tank for $500 dollars and kept it filled by use of a float controlled inlet line from our well.

Another consideration of large scale extraction is compost supply. Compost used for extraction has a different set of considerations since your not growing microbes as in brewing. I will start here next time.

 Meanwhile, check out our website sgidaho.com for products, pictures and other information. Sustainable Growth Boise is our local company doing organic landcare.

Part 2:Basic Theory of Microorganism Introduction…

January 22, 2008 by Ray Gore

After buying one of the first prototype extractors from Dennis Hronek and hauling it back to Idaho from Colorado, the learning curve was minimal. First off we had to accept that we were not going to spend 24 hrs waiting for usable material that we used to call compost tea, now what we were producing was called compost extract. In the past the old brewers used approximately 15 pounds of compost but the new extractor used about double that amount to make 500 gallons. The old compost tea had to be applied within 6-8 hours and the new extract could be kept up to 10 days during cooler weather which allowed us a greater window of application especially in situations such as rain or scheduling conflicts. There were many benefits, mostly that we had a product ready for sale with less inputs of materials and time.

In comparison to brewing, the extractor was not dependent upon water temp, Ph and foods. The foods most brewing companies list as “Secret” are usually a mixture of seaweed, molasses, sometimes rock dust and sugar and drive the cost of the end product up. With extracting you simply shovel in the compost and whatever organisms are on the particles is what you get in the end product so your not multiplying like brewing. What you start with is what you end up with.

The major groups of microorganisms in good or complete compost in order of usual numbers are bacteria, fungi, nematodes, protozoa, mychorhizal fungi and microarthropods. The last three rarely present in arid region dry compost. Bacteria live in colonies that emit an alkaline slime that helps them adhere to things and also supposedly play a role in soil Ph. I have heard that 90 plus percent of the soils microbes are not fully understood nor identified so who can say. The fungi in soil grow out in threads called hypha and individual threads called hyphae. These pull the smaller glued micro aggregate soil pieces formed by the bacteria together and form a larger particle called a Macro aggregate. The fungi are acidic and help to keep the soil more acid, especially in a forest type situation. The nematodes in soil are non segmented worms that come in three main catagories. The ones most heard of in farming situations are the root feeding nematodes and the good guys are usually considered to be predatory nematodes. There are whats called switchers that feed on fungi but when fungi is not present they will switch to root feeding. The soils “Truckers” are protozoa. These microscopic feeders prey upon bacteria and release soil nitrogen and other waste products throughout the soil because they are so mobile. The main groups they are catagorized are flagellates, amoebe and cilliates. Mychorrhizal fungi are fungi that are symbiotic with the plants roots and exchange valued nutrients in exchange for sugars released by the plant. These fungi can extend the roots by some estimates up to 18 inches on some farming crop roots and many yards on some tree roots. The two main categories are ecto and endo with ecto being with trees and endo with some trees but also other plants.

I have often told my farming customers that saving water is the easiest thing to accomplish by spraying these critters onto your soil and it makes sense if you believe the EPA and a Ohio state scientist who both claim that by using good compost the soils structures can be changed. How this happens is like the previous statement, the microbes grab the soil particles and form aggregates. First the bacteria slimes the smallest particles into micro aggregate then the fungi pull these into the larger macro aggregates then walla, you have little pore spaces for water and critters to hide in. We have seen this happen very quickly and sometimes with only one application.

 Next time I will outline some of the equipment needed for large scale ag operations and touch upon organic lawn care equipment needed. Also I will give some typical and not so typical results from using compost teas or compost extracts and why these things might be happening.

Part 1: Basic theory of microorganism introduction by the use of compost teas, compost extracts and high quality compost

January 17, 2008 by Ray Gore

Hello,

Many of you who read this post may have seen me post before on the Yahoo Compost Tea listserve , I have posted off and on sporadically for years and even abandoned it for a year or so when there was just too much chatter and not much learning going on for awhile. I will start this posting out with how I got involved with the uses of teas then on to making a quality product to creating a company based around supply of the liquid, consulting and other company ventures along the way. If you are currently considering buying into this movement, this information might be worth your time to investigate. Either way, lets get started!

Some time ago, around the year 2001, I was required as part of my job as a organic farming consultant for Magic Valley Compost a Jerome Idaho company to travel to Indianapolis Indiana to attend the ACRES conference. ACRES is a sustainable farming and a general all around the government is out to get us kind of conference whereas the majority of the attendees if not menonite are looking for ways to do anything other than conventional in order to queitly rebel against the current establishment. I looked at my intended training schedule for the event and noticed I was signed up to sit in on Dr. Elaine Inghams soil biology primer class or one titled with the same content. Not knowing or interested in reading about what form of microbiology that resided in the soil I manuevered my way into another class that I thought might be more pertinent, Soil Balancing the Dr. William Albrecht way as presented by Neal Kinsey of Kinsey Ag, a consulting/soil testing company.

While sitting in the rather organized and somewhat dry class of Neal I could hear the laughing and other noise emitted from the class next door, I seemed like they were having a lot of fun over there. During one break outside in the hallway on one of the days there was a large crowd of people posing questions to a short woman with dark graying hair and glasses whom seemed geniunely interested in their questions while being very confident and convincing with the subject matter. I was later informed by a friend of mine that it was indeed the guru of Compost Tea concoctions and everything that slithers and hides beneath our feet in the soils called microbiology. This brief encounter led me to want to attend other classes in the conference that she would be giving and during one such class after I was sufficiently pumped up wanting to get back to the shop and brew my own little batch of life giving sea monkeys she said that Soil Foodweb a company she owned that had offices in Oregon, New York and Austraila would soon be doing a first ever certification for Advisors. Recognizing right away that this might be a good oportunity for marketing services and learning more I checked into it when I returned to Twin Falls Idaho.

I called the Soil Foodweb (SFI) offices and immediately signed up for the certification course and was introduced to Shep Smith, an Oregon transplant from Florida who had trained in entomology and general laid back attitude of live and let live, Arden Anderson, a doctor who also studied the Carey Reams theories, consults and promptly told us to never give out free information, Jim Toler, a quiet man who later went on to form Willamette Organics, Alli Clark, the best personality Soil Foodweb ever employed, the Soil Foodweb (SFI) staff and a host of other people who would go on to be good friends or contacts.

About a year before I attended these conferences my employer and another employee had upon the recommendation of SFI purchased a Growing Solutions compost tea machine. The machine was a large light green circular contraption that contained several baskets that sat upon the top of the water tank as air disc on the bottom released thousands of bubbles per second designed to break free the microorganisms contained within the compost that was placed into the baskets at the top that in theory was to be extracted but instead just compacted the material within. Well after many thousands of dollars sent to SFI proved we could not reach the threshold that supposedly meant that we were making good compost tea, we tore into the machine and modified it. We removed the baskets and the air disc and placed Bobo-Laters along the sides. The Bobo-Later is a PVC pipe/door screen design by Bob Norsen of Seattle Washington that is cheap and works really well in most situations. Finally we had a machine that was nothing more than a 500 gallon holding tank for $12,000.00 or so being the initial investment that still couldnt make the SFI minimums, so we did what all good students do and set the machine out behind the shop and purchased another brand. The second machine we purchased was an EPM 500 gallon machine, or Earth Tea machine. This machine, now the latest and greatest according to SFI since Growing Solutions had since fallen out of favor was tested and for sure THE machine to own according to them. I believe we paid almost $9000.00 for this one not counting freight. So, doing what SFI recommends we tested, then tested again, then tested some more, almost gave up after still not recieving any good high quality tea according to the SFI test using the manufacturers powder blend then tested again. Sometime during this endless stream of money flowing back to the SFI labs I was spending a lot of time on the phone with the EPM ownership and was told that SFI test were not an indication of the machines performance as others were getting results in the field without the test. I was told to add a little Beauvaria if I wanted a good test and also to take the dirtiest sludge containing sample, pour most of the water out and leave the sludge in the bottle then send that in for testing. I never tried either system to see if they worked, bummed that we had spent so much time and money on machines and test. I did call SFI to inform them of what I had learned but was informed that I must have not heard the instructions right and was wrong, but soon thereafter others were reporting the same results and instructions and EPM soon fell from being SFI recommended. Although on occasion I did witness otherwise.

 Dennis Hronek, a Nebraska farmer/Entreprenuer had sometime during this same time period, around 2003, invented the Extractor. The Extractor if you can visualize works on the concept of a top hopper that you shovel compost into that contains a common screw type auger with wide flites that the compost gets forced between and through a metered hole into the wash chamber. The wash chamber has another auger that carries the compost to the dump end but on the way sprays the compost with 7-10gpm water through metered nozzles and a screen of approximately 50 mesh surrounds the auger to allow the dirty compost water to flow through a pump into a holding tank. This is extraction in a nut shell and I have often described it as sending the compost through a carwash and collecting the liquid runoff minus the large particles. This machine, for all its worth, cuts the production time down to making 500 gallons in about 15 minutes ready to apply whereas a common brewer may take 18-24 hours with the added cost of adding foods to grow the microbes.

Next time I will continue with Part 2, the benefits of aerated compost tea ACT compared to liquid compost extract or LCE and large scale production techniques.

New Website Online January 17, 2008 for Sustainable Growth Idaho (Boise)

January 16, 2008 by Ray Gore

Were very excited to announce the posting of our new website to be unveiled this Thursday. Local and national customers will be able to locate products and services easier than before.

Organic Fertilizer

December 15, 2007 by dclemons

water-icon-blog.jpgAll living things need to eat - - it is what makes everything grow and proliferate whether one is an animal, plant or bacteria.

There are many things a plant can use for food to stay alive, but just like people, there are certain foods that will create health and vitality, and other foods that make the plant weaker and more susceptible to disease.

For both plants and animals, the general rule is: the more natural the food source, the better. Our systems were designed to be in harmony with nature, able to readily assimilate simple forms of the foods around us. Eating an unbalanced and overly processed diet may keep you alive for a while, but it won’t make you thrive.

This is why organic fertilizers are better for plants. They are the simple but balanced forms of food that the plant will respond best to. Buyer beware. There are many “organic” fertilizers out there that are incomplete and/or of poor quality but can still be called organic since they were derived from natural ingredients.


There are three nutrients needed by plants in larger quantities than any others: Nitrogen(N), Phosphorus(P), and Potassium(K). This are usually rated on fertilizer as its “NPK” value. These are the nutrients that most chemical fertilizers focus on. This can be equated to a person eating a diet full of simple sugars and protein, without any vitamins minerals.


A good organic fertilizer will have many other nutrients (in their balanced and natural state) to aid the plant in being stronger and more nutritious.


The following are some recommended organic fertilizers.

COMPOST! : Many people would not consider this a fertilizer, but a well made compost should have just about every possible nutrient a plant would need, AND in the form it desires it most. You build up the organic matter in the soil, stimulate beneficial microorganisms, and feed the plant nutrients. . . it just doesn’t get any better. But, the next recommendations are valuable too to give the plant an extra boost, especially if good compost isn’t readily available.

Fish Hydrolysate : This is different from fish emulsion. Fish hydrolysate is enzymatically digested and cold processed to keep the nutrients ready to be used by the plant. This is a good source of Nitrogen and sometimes Phosphorus. This is an especially good source of Nitrogen, because it is in a protein form which breaks down slowly and feeds the beneficial microorganisms in the soil as well. You will get a slow release of nutrients greater than the rating on the bottle as the season progresses. Also a very good source of micro-nutrients

Kelp (seaweed) : Kelp is an excellent source of micro-nutrients, Potassium, and plant growth stimulating hormones. It helps to boost the plants immune system making it less prone to disease and pest. Kelp is also helpful in transplanting to prevent root shock. Research is still being done on all the many benefits of using kelp.

Humic Acid (Humates) : This is a substance mined in certain areas, shown to be a great source of micro-nutrients, and excellent in stimulating the growth of beneficial microorganisms in the soil. It also seems to have a value in decreasing the amount of other fertilizers needed since it helps make more of what’s there available to the plant.

Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate) : Sulfur is an essential nutrient and needed in larger quantities than other minerals, and it’s sulfate form is most kind to beneficial microorganisms than other forms. The calcium is also another essential nutrient. In the Verde Valley’s high pH (alkaline) soils, this substance helps to bring it down a little. You want to be a little careful with how much Gypsum you use since sulfur is a fungicide. A little is essential, too much can harm beneficial organisms in the soil. 2-5 lbs per 1000 square feet should be adequate.

A little extra hint. Have dandelions? Spread some Gypsum where they are located. Dandelions are an indicator species of unavailable calcium in the soil, and when the calcium is present, the are less likely to grow.

All in all, just remember. . . Nature did it first, and Nature does it best. We can be most effective stewards of plants by doing our best to mimic that system.

If you can’t find the above fertilizers locally, a couple of online sources for them are: Peaceful Valley Farm Supply, www.groworganic.com, Sustainable Growth, www.sustainablegrowth.com, Bountiful Gardens, www.growbiointensive.com . Encourage your local nurseries to start carrying organic fertilizers as well to support local business.Growth Boise Organic

Taking Green to the Front Yards

December 15, 2007 by dclemons


Let’s face it, these days it is cool to be Green.. In this new found popularity, the environmental community (often labeled as tree huggers) has found whole new voice. More and more people are driving hybrids, recycling curbside, using CFL’s, and eating organic, all in an effort to reduce our strain on the environment and live healthier.

A big step towards this collective effort is right out our front doorstep. According to NASA, there are over 31 million acres of turf in the United States, that is over 50,0000 square miles. And, on all of that turf, over 70 million pounds of active pesticide are dumped. And then there’s the dead zone issue in our open water areas regularly blamed on the farmer, however, the application rate of herbicides, pesticides and synthetic fertilizer is on average ten times more per acre on a homeowner’s yard, than in agriculture.

It’s easy to think that the few bags of chemicals we use to green up the lawn and keep it weed and pest free are really just a drop in the bucket, but cumulative effect is mounting.

So, easy fix. Everyone just stop using conventional lawn chemicals and go organic. Hard sell to the typical American homeowner who is uses the reactive style of landscape fertility. . . Grass is yellowing? Add fertilizer. Fungal problem? Fungicide. Pest problem? Pesticide. Pesky dandelions? Herbicide. And so on.

This cycle persists indefinitely because the landscape doesn’t have the ability to fight its own battles, or you might say it is lacking an immune system. Just as a cough suppressant temporarily stops the hacking, a chemical additive to a landscape can quickly quiet the symptom, while doing nothing to correct the underlying problem.

I like to equate a synthetic fertilizer to a sugary energy drink. After all the stimulants and quick calories hit your system, you may feel, act, and maybe even look like you are healthy, vibrant and ready to for anything. After the high wears off, you often feel less energized than even before you had the drink, finding yourself craving another pick-me-up. This cycle can wear out your system, and since you are substituting real nourishment for an empty stimulant, you eventually get weaker.

This is very much what we see in a chemical landscape. All synthetic fertilizers are in the form of a salt. Salts dissolve easily in water, making them highly available to the plant in large quantities. This produces the quick “green up” experienced from synthetic fertilizers. After the synthetic fertilizer passes by the plant leaf and root, its high solubility also makes it great at leaching or running off . . . often into our water sheds. The environmental issues aside for now, the plant is soon left hungry again. The high N-P-K (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium) synthetic fertilizer didn’t provide the plant with a balance and sustaining meal.

Also, what happens when you poor salt on anything full of water? It dehydrates. In the soil, nature has created a complex “soil food web” of organisms that have evolved with plants over the millennia to live symbiotically. The plant roots excrete sugars and proteins into the soil to attract and feed microorganisms such as bacteria, fungi, protozoa, and nematodes. In return, the organisms act as the “gut” for the plant, breaking down and pre-digesting complex nutrients, and making them table ready for the plant to take up. As the plant needs different foods, it sends a chemical signal to the soil organisms to “fetch” whatever it may need. These necessary creatures are, like humans, mostly water, and are quickly pickled when salts are regularly poured on them.

In an organic landscape, the goal is to feel the soil, and let the soil take care of feeding the plant. In this process, the plant gets what it needs, when it needs it, providing the soil is fortified.

Now, think of a pesticide/fungicide as being a broad spectrum antibiotic. An antibiotic is a necessary tool in the modern world that allows us to combat a bacterial invasion to strong for our immune system to handle. A great tool when used properly, highly degenerating when used improperly.

Ideally, we want to be strong enough to fight whatever invader may come with our own immunity, including white blood cells and the beneficial microorganisms found in the intestines, skin, eyes, etc. When we are unhealthy from poor diet, lack of sleep, lack of exercise and too much stress, we lack the ability to fight.

Same applies in the plant world. When the plant lives on a nutritionally poor diet, and in biologically dead soil, disease and pests are naturally drawn. It is nature’s way of weeding out the sick. It has been shown in many studies, pests can actually sense the chemical stress signals emitted from a sickly plant, and hence will be drawn to the weak. In a healthy plant environment, leaf and root surfaces are physically covered with beneficial bacteria, fungi, etc., who stand guard and out-compete the disease causing organisms for food and space. This creates a natural barrier for disease and pests to access the plant.

A chemical/ conventional system makes the plant so dependent on the constant chemical inputs (energy drinks and antibiotics), that without those being regularly dosed, they cannot stand on their own and soon “crash”. The more chemicals applied, the more the plant can’t live without them.

The paradigm shift has been made, and the homeowner decides to go completely organic. So, now why doesn’t my grass look as good anymore?

The organic industry sometimes calls this “taking the rug off the drug”. Depending on how dead the soil is, and how dependent the plant is on the drug, there may be a transition period where the landscape actually has to de-tox and repopulate all the beneficial microorganisms.

This process can be sped up through the use of high quality compost, liquid compost, and other soil building amendments. The compost, if it was made properly, will have the high quantities of beneficial microorganisms to help create the necessary structure in the soil to grab and hold nutrients and water for the plant to use as needed. The EPA has even stated that the use of compost and liquid compost can reduce the use of water up to 50%.

What is liquid compost? Often, it is too impractical and expensive to spread out the amount of high quality compost needed to attain the desired effect. Instead, there is technology that can actually extract the nutrients and organisms from the compost into a liquid form so it can easily be sprayed out to foliar feed, and inoculate the soil and leaf surfaces with the good critters.

In a balance program of organic soil nutrients and beneficial microorganisms, we can successfully see a landscape fully convert into a naturally healthy environment, as nature intended.

Thankfully we need not to figure out this process alone. Many non and for profit groups have compiled “how to” information to get on the right track. Check out Northwest Coalition for Alternatives to Pesticides (NCAP) www.pesticide.org , www.dirtdoctor.com and www.safelawns.org to read helpful information on the why’s and how’s of organic land care.

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